Cheat sheet · Multi-pitch

Rappelling & lowering

Throw the rope, knot position, rappel line — and how to lower on two half ropes or a tube in guide mode.

Up front

Rappelling is often the fiddliest part of the day — most mistakes happen here, not on the climb.
Two half ropes: join, throw, check knot position, then rethread. Don’t scramble the order.
Course notes, not a textbook. Rescue especially is a memory aid — practise under instruction, watch the video.

Rope management

Throw, knot, rappel line

Most rappel problems start when you throw — not at the device.

Throw a rope butterfly

Coil the rope as a butterfly and throw — it snags less in the terrain. Leave the end a bit longer so it unrolls cleanly below.

Rappel knot at the wall

The joining knot (usually an overhand) sits at the wall, with about 10–20 cm of slack. Don’t jam it in a crack and don’t let it hang metres out — it will snag when you pull.

Rappel line: knot first, then throw

On a rappel line, don’t throw the lower rope until the joining knot is back with you. Otherwise you throw the wrong strand — and you’re left with no join.

Knots in the ends

Always stopper both rope ends. Handy: one overhand through both ends together — they stay paired when you throw.

Two half ropes

Lowering on two half ropes

If you have to lower someone across a rope join: overhand as the join, thread the knot through the carabiner, then feed the ends.

1Join both half ropes with an overhand.
2Thread the knot through the stance carabiner.
3Feed the ends until the knot can pass.
4Brake hand: ease off in a short jerk, then pull the end — the knot slides through.
5Brake hand on the brake strand the whole time — tube or HMS as usual.

This is a fiddly sequence. Practise on the ground / in training first, not the first time at the stance.

Seconding

Tube in guide mode — lowering the second

In guide mode (Reverso / ATC Guide on the fixed point) the device locks. To lower you need a lever:

1Clip a quickdraw into the small horn / ear of the tube.
2Lever with the carabiner — that releases the lock in a controlled way.
3Brake hand stays on the brake strand. Lever only as much rope as you want out.

Follow your device’s manual — the horn sits slightly differently by model.

Brake-hand principle and tube basics under Belaying with a tube →

Emergency

Unconscious person — piggyback (course note)

Incomplete course notes, not a rescue course. Confirm sequence and details with the instructor on site — and watch the ÖAV video before you try any of this.

Goal is often: out of the vertical into easier ground so a heli can reach you.
120 cm sling, grab the middle (stitching). Next to it a small overhand with four strands — that makes a small loop.
Long end of the sling to the belayer’s master point (carabiner). Rappel device into the small overhand loop.
Unconscious person piggyback — rappel as a unit. Weight, locking off and rope handling are very different from solo.

Video

Rappelling on rock: avoid the usual mistakes

The full rappelling episode from SicherAmBerg — rappel stance, sequence, and the classic failure points.

Practice

Remember this

Throw only once the knot is set and you know which strand is below.
Throw a rope butterfly, leave the end a bit longer.
On the rappel line: lower rope only after the knot is back with you.
Guide mode: draw in the horn, lever, brake hand stays on.

Also Knots →, Belay anchors → and Tour planning →

Course notes and a learning aid for the group — not a substitute for instruction at the crag.